How are Hair Extensions Applied?

There are different hair extensions application methods. The proffered method used by NataLana is pre-bonded hair extensions. The following videos done my NataLana demonstrate how this particular method is done, and also show the whole process of application:


 Click to watch the video of the whole application process

How are Hair Extensions Removed?

Each type of hair extensions is removed differently. The following video will show how pre-bonded hair extensions are removed.

Do Hair Extensions Damage My Real Hair?

Many clients ask if hair extensions damage their own hair. The answer to that is “yes” but only if not applied correctly. Natalana are aware of these common mistakes and ensure that everything is done to a high standard. So what can go wrong?

1. Temperature

Hot fusion method is done using hot iron which melts the keratin glue at about 180 C. Compared to the hair straighteners which heat up to 230 C, hot iron is only applied to a small section of the hair. There is also another ultrasonic machine available which melts the bonds using ultrasonic waves and does not produce any heat. However, it takes longer for the glue to melt, therefore the whole application process increases for about 1-2 hours.

2. Maintenance

It is essential to have maintenance done every 4-6 weeks. First, every day a person loses about 20-100 hairs, depending on how much hair a person has, age and hair’s growth cycle. The hair that naturally sheds stays in the bonds. This loose hair starts tangling with one other creating something similar to dreadlocks. During the maintenance NataLana cuts off this fallen hair and prevents it from tangling. Second, NataLana check if all the bonds are properly attached and ensure none of them are loose or broken. Third, some hair can be lost while brushing or styling. Therefore, about 10-20 extra strands are applied each time to compensate the loss of volume.

Herr is a sample of what hair extensions look like after they have grown. The first image illustrates the hair extensions after seven months of wear. As you can see the roots have grown quite far away and the bonds, therefore, have dropped down from the scalp. The second image shows the roots of the fallen (shed) hair. These roots are cut of during the maintenance.


3. Application angle

Quite often hair extensions are applied at the wrong angle. Each strand needs to be applied parallel to the scalp. If it is done horizontally, then after a few weeks when hair grows and a hair extensions strand drops down, it will be supported by a small amount of a client’s real hair. That means that the whole weight will be held by a few top hairs which can easily brake. This can create bold patches. NataLana make sure all the strands are applied properly. The master always asks the client to warn if there is any pulling feeling.

4. Pressure

Pulling also can be caused by applying hair extensions to small sections of client’s real hair. It is important to take a good section of real hair which will hold a strand of hair extensions. If the section is too small and hair extensions are too heavy, they will start pulling client’s real hair.

5. Bad Hair

Good hair is essential to have good hair extensions. NataLana use either Remy Indian or Remy European hair. To learn more about different types of hair, please read the following article:  http://www.natalana.co.uk/types-of-hair-for-hair-extensions.html

What Application Methods are There?

There are many types of hair extensions and even more techniques to attach them.  In this article, we will try and help you understand the following techniques:

There are four main types of hair extensions available in the market. First, they can be loose. Hair is cut from a donor and then processed in the factory and sold in bulk.  Second, a weft, also called a weave, is a long strip of hair which is sewed together on top. These wefts are approximately one metre long, depending on the quantity of hair. Next, hair extensions can be sold in strands. These hair extensions are also called pre-bonded or pre-tipped as they have keratin glue on the tips. Finally, there are tape hair extensions, also known as skin wefts or skin weaves. These are extensions which are attached using transparent, double sided polyurethane tape.

1. Loose Hair Extensions

Loose hair comes in bulk. Extensions can be fitted either pre-bonding each strand or applying glue on the tip of the strand and attaching it to the client’s hair. There are various ways of applying glue. Keratin glue can be sold as granules, glue-gun sticks or keratin tips. Granules are places in an electric keratin glue pot which melts them. A strand of hair is dipped in and then, while the glue is still liquid, the strand is attached to the client’s hair. A stick is inserted into a glue-gun where gets melted, and then it is applied to the tip of the strand, after which it fitted to the client’s hair. Finally, keratin tips are placed on the tip of the strand, after which it is melted and applied using hair extension connector. This method particularly effective when you want to control the thickness of each strand and if you want to mix several colours. This type of  extensions can last from 3-6 months, depending on how fast your own hair grows.

2. Weft (Weave) Hair Extensions

As described earlier weft hair extensions comprise a long strip of hair which is sewed together using a machine (see photo below). There are various ways to fit the wefts on the scalp.

The first method is sewing. First, the client’s hair is braided, making either one spiral cornrow, which covers the whole head, or several straight ones which match the layering. After this has been done, the wefts are simply sewed into these cornrows. This type of extension is quick to perform and can last up to 3 months. However, it is best to have your hair re-done every month, as the cornrows become loose after a while.

**Please note that in the photo a mannequin head is used**

Another way of attaching hair extensions is to use liquid glue. It is simply applied to the sewed part of the weft and then fitted on the client’s hair. This method is good for getting fast results and can last up to three weeks. However, many people are allergic to this glue, which can cause thrush on the scalp.

**Please note that in the photo a mannequin head is used**

Micro rings, also called loops, are small rings made of plastic and silicone. This is another way to attach hair wefts.

A weft is located on a divided section of the client’s hair. Two strands (one from the scalp and another from the weft) are joined and pulled through a micro ring, which is then flattened. This way the weft is attached by fitting together several strands both from the weft and the scalp. The photo below shows three main steps of the process. The colour of the micro rings is light only for demonstration reasons. Normally, similar hair colour micro rings are applied.

**Please note that in the photo a mannequin head is used**

Applying weft hair extensions with bonds is a similar process to the micro rings. There is only one difference – strands from a scalp and a weft are attached to each other using keratin glue.

**Please note that in the photo a mannequin head is used**

Clip-in extensions, also called clip-on extensions, are wefts which have sewed in clips. Clip-in extension is a temporary solution, since they are fitted in the morning and should be removed in the evening. This method is good for those people who don’t want to wear hair extensions every day. However, it may not look good on every person, since it requires some knowledge what colour and texture to buy, and how to match the existing hair cut.

3. Pre-bonded Hair Extensions

Pre-bonded hair extensions, also called pre-tipped, are hair extensions with keratin glue bond on a tip. Bonds can be in three main forms – I or stick tip, U-tip and flat tip.

Hot fusion hair extensions are attached using a special hair connector which melts the keratin bond. A small section of a client’s hair is taken and laid on a bond. Either U-tip, (also called Nail-tip) or flat-tip pre-bonded extensions are used. While the client’s hair and a bond is held in position, the hair connector is used to melt the bond to the client’s hair. Before the bond hardens, the glue is formed into either a cylindrical or flat shape and the extension is attached to the hair.

**Please note that in the photo a mannequin head is used**

The same process can use ultrasonic or infrared connectors, which melt the bonds without the use of  heat. This process is called Cold Fusion. NataLana provide both hot and cold fusion hair extensions. Micro rings, as described above, are small rings made of plastic and silicone. I-tip extensions are used for this method. The client’s hair is put through a micro ring after which a pre-bonded I-tip is positioned into it. Then firm pressure is applied on the area of the micro ring, using pliers. The micro ring holds together the section of the human hair and a strand of the hair extensions.

**Please note that in the photo a mannequin head is used**

4. Tape Hair Extensions

Tape Hair extensions, also called skin weft, is another relatively new technique. It is a weft where the hair is held together by double transparent sided polyurethane  tape.  One piece of the tape is torn off and the weft is applied the scalp. The weft and the attached hair is pulled upwards and another weft is attached underneath. That way the client’s hair section is surrounded by two wefts.

**Please note that in the photo a mannequin head is used**

What Types of Hair are Used for Hair Extensions?

There are different types of hair used for hair extensions and the prices vary a lot depending which hair type is used. So, what is the difference? And why, for the same looking hair, can we pay from £30 – £200? This article will help you understand the variation of the hair grades and their difference.

Synthetic Hair Extensions

Hair extensions can be made from synthetic hair and human hair. Synthetic hair extensions are the cheapest, but also are the worst. First, synthetic material is shinier than average human hair and therefore can look unnatural when extended. Second, synthetic hair extensions become dry and less attractive after wearing them for several weeks. Third, there might be difficulties styling synthetic hair extensions because synthetics melt when you try to curl or straighten them with hair straightener or curling tongs. And finally, it becomes hard to look after the extended hair because of difficulty combing and styling it.

Human Hair Extensions

Human hair extensions vary in price and quality. The hair extensions may be remy, non-remy or virgin. Remy hair (also spelled remi) means all the hair lies in the same direction. Why is that important? Human hair has a cuticle layer which protects against water loss and always faces the same direction – downwards. If hair lies in different directions, cuticles run opposite each other which causes tangling. The hair which is cut off a person’s head is always a Remy Hair, also called Cuticle Hair. Remy hair is dyed and permed to provide a variety of colours and textures.

Non-remy hair is fallen hair which is collected from a brush. It is in great supply because it is much cheaper than Remy hair. However, the non-Remy hair can go through a strong chemical process which removes the cuticle layer. The hair then is covered with a silicone layer which provides the shininess of the hair which after a couple of washes is lost, making the hair look dull. Companies who claim their extensions are “tangle free” or “cuticle free” mean they were chemically processed, and the cuticle layer was removed.

The photo below demonstrates what hair looks under the microscope. Cuticles are clearly seen, which means that the hair has not been chemically treated. Remy hair is the one which cuticles go only one direction – downwards.

Virgin hair is human Remy hair which remains in its original state and has not been permed, dyed or anyhow chemically processed. Virgin hair extensions are sold in their original colours and textures. This type of hair is very expensive because it is in short supply.

The Origin of Hair Extensions

European and Russian hair is considered to be the best hair type and comes in different textures and colours. However, European and Russian hair is short in supply and therefore the most expensive.

Chinese hair is the most popular in the hair extensions industry, and is considered to be the cheapest, since it is available in large amounts. However, Chinese hair is thicker than average European hair and can look unnatural on a client who has thin hair. For that reason Chinese hair is often exposed to chemical treatment in order to destroy the cuticle layer and make the hair thinner.

Indian hair is thinner than Chinese and has different fibre types – fine, thick, straight, wavy, or curly. Most Indian women do not chemically process their hair, which leaves it in virgin condition. Indian hair is the best alternative to European hair as it is not noticeably thicker. NataLana use So.Cap pre-tipped human Remy hair extensions which are made of 100% natural hair, from India.